 |
| DESOLATE LAVAFIELD FROM THE BUS |
 |
| A WELCOME BEER AT THE BUS HOSTEL |
 |
| REYKJAVIK CITY CENTRE |
 |
| MOI ON AN ICELANDIC HORSE |
 |
| THE HARPA CENTRE |
 |
| AMAZING VIEW INSIDE THE HARPA CENTRE |
 |
| 'HOW TO BECOME ICELANDIC IN 60 MINUTES' |
 |
| NAUTHOLSVIK THERMAL BEACH |
I was a little sad to leave beautiful Landmannalaugar, but being able to get back to Reykjavik a little earlier than expected would enable me to have a better look at the city.
The bus journey back was a treat in itself, though. The roads were little more than dirt tracks, and we had to drive through several fjords, which is something buses don't have to do in England. The Icelandic buses have large wheels and a high chassis, so are obviously made for this. That didn't stop them clattering noisily nor vibrating so much that it was impossible to rest my elbow on the window sill without it being thrown off.
The scenery that we passed was almost alien - huge flood plains followed by huge lava fields. The latter great grey expanses of solidified lava and ash were surreal - almost lunar. The newer lava fields were quite barren, whereas the older fields showed signs of life, with moss, grass and the occasional flower starting to colonise the wasteland. It was like watching creation in the making. Then it started to rain heavily; yet another ingredient of life. It seemed that the timing of my departure from Landmannalaugar had been perfect, although mountain weather is so localised that it might not actually be raining there.
Finally arriving back in Reykjavik, I quick-stepped my way to the Bus Hostel to be told that they could provide me with a bed for the two additional nights. Whoopee. After spending four nights on a half inch thick foam sleeping pad I really appreciated the comfort of a soft mattress.
A beer in the evening rounded the day off nicely.
Thursday morning involved doing the laundry and making some decisions about what to do with my extra city time. I then headed downtown to make some bookings for the following day (you will have to be patient to find out what these are). I then visited Volcano House, which was very informative about the rocks and ash I had come across on my walk, and also the Saga Museum about the colonisation of Iceland by the Celts and the Vikings from the 9th century onwards.
Walking back along the main street, which incidentally is called Laugavegur, the same name as the trail, I was once again impressed by how a city with so many of its buildings clad with corrogated steel sheets could look so attractive. I think that the bright colours used to paint them has a lot to do with it. Finally, on my way back to the hostel, a visit to the Bonus supermarket was required to replenish my food supplies. It had been an easy-going day.
I was up early Friday, and ready when the man from Eldhestar stables came to pick me up. Along with a few others, I was driven to a large horse farm in Vellir, just east of Selfoss. We were each supplied with a riding helmet and matched with an Icelandic Horse which matched our previous experience with horses. The Icelandic horse is the only breed to be found in Iceland and it is renowned for its hardiness, its docile manner and its comfortable gait.
We were led as a group on paths surrounding the farm and then up into the overlooking hills. Though there was no galloping across the plains or anything like that, it was a pleasant way to spend a sunny morning.
Back in Reykjavik I made some preparations for the ensuing week by visiting one of the local Hostelling International hostels to see if they could pre-book some accommodation for me as I drove around the Westfjords and the north of Iceland. A car would be brought to the Bus Hostel for me tomorrow afternoon.
I was partially successful, but might end up sleeping in the car or my tent on some nights. Anyway, I'm as ready to go as I can be.
For the evening I had booked to see a comedy show at the amazing Harpa-Reykjavik Concert Hall and Conference Centre. The show was entitled 'How to become Icelandic in 60 Minutes'. It was obviously aimed at tourists, but nevertheless amusing enough to keep me occupied for an hour.
However, the real star of the show was the Harpa Centre itself. What an amazing structure, with internal walls looking like blocks of volcanic rock and the outside clad in glass polyhedrons inspired by the crystallised basalt columns commonly found in Iceland.
The comedian joked that this, the most expensive building in Iceland, was being constructed at the time of the country's financial melt-down. He promised that Iceland would pay the rest of Europe back -sometime.
On Saturday morning I took advantage of the sunshine to clean and dry my tent properly. Then I took a walk to Nautholsvik Thermal Beach to the south of Reykjavik. The sea around Iceland is generally too cold for bathing but this artificial cove is heated by natural hot water. The yellow sand was imported from Morocco. If I'd had more time I would have taken a dip, but there will be other opportunities.
Back at the hostel, the hire car was delivered by Jenny from Blue Car Rentals at 3pm, precisely, as agreed. Time for the next part of my Icelandic adventure!
