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| MY TRAIN AT BASTIA STATION |
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| CALVI |
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| CAMPSITE AT THE GITE D'ETAPE IN CALENZANA |
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| LEMON SORBET IN VODKA |
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| LOOKING BACK TOWARDS CALVI |
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| IMPRESSIVE MOUNTAINS |
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| SPAIMATA SUSPENSION BRIDGE |
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| LOVELY BELGIAN COUPLE NEIL AND JOSIE |
The train left Bastia for Calvi at 9.25am. Most of the other passengers looked like hikers. We were all in for a treat.
Once out of the environs of Bastia, the train wove through river valleys and over bridges, giving us spectacular views of the rugged mountains. They looked beautiful, but intimidating; I decided to put the latter characteristic to the back of my mind for now. The journey only cost €16.40 but if they had called it a scenic railway trip and charged twice the price, I'm sure they would have filled all the seats.
The half-way point of the journey was Pont Leccia, where we waited for passengers from the Ajaccio train to come aboard. It was then a slow winding descent to the coast near I'lle Rousse. The final part of the rail trip followed the shore-line into Calvi and was just as breathtaking as the mountain section. When we rolled into Calvi at 12.47pm I wondered how over 3 hours could go so quickly.
I could have alighted a few miles before Calvi at a campsite for GR20'ers, but it would have been a shame not to pay a visit to this pretty harbour town, and it was too late in the day to start the walk anyway. Like Bastia, Calvi had an overlooking citadel, which I obviously explored. It also had a large marina filled with expensive yachts and a promenade lined with bars and restaurants offering their 'Menu du Jour'. I ended up buying lunch from local Spar store though (Spar seems to be popular in Corsica).
My intention was to start the GR20 tomorrow and that required me to get to the start point in the village of Calenzana, about 9 miles away, before nightfall. At a push I could have walked along the roadside, but I found a private bus company that would take me, along with quite a few others, to Calenzana for just €8 each. I noted that the thermometer above the windscreen said the outside temperature was 31 degrees C.
We were dropped off outside the Calenzana Gite d'etape at about 4.30pm. All the rooms were booked but I paid to pitch my tent nearby. On the rocky ground, this required the use of the masonry nails I had brought as tent pegs.
I explored the village, which was slightly dilapidated but still a really pretty place with loads of character. Residents were sitting on their doorsteps smoking, chatting and enjoying the late afternoon sun.
I located the start of the GR20 path to save me looking for it next morning, and then ordered supper from the Restaurant Le Calenzena. It was only pizza, but it tasted good, and it was followed by a sweet of 'Citron Sorbet in Vodka'. Cracking. Along with a half litre of Corsican red wine, I knew I would sleep well. When I came to pay the bill they also gave me a free glass of a Corsican liqueur called 'Red Myrtle' which was served ice-cold. It is apparently distilled from Corsican myrtles harvested in the shrublands (the maquis). I was pleased that the campsite was downhill from the restaurant so I could roll in the correct direction.
I awoke as the sun rose with a clear head, surprisingly, and on exiting my tent found that many of those that surounded mine the previous evening had now gone - the early starters, who were either concerned about storms breaking in the afternoon or simply wanted to chose the best tent pitch at the Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu, the next stopping point some 6 to 7 hours of walking away. I left the Gite at 8.00am so there was still plenty of time.
This first stage of the GR20 involved an ascent of 1,360m and I knew that it would be a hard plod with a full rucksack. The path was clearly marked with the usual red and white stripes of a GR trail, but it was rocky so concentration was required to avoid tripping over. From time to time I would look back at Calvi receeding into the distance. The view was especially good from the col at Bocca a u Saltu at 1,250m.
The next hour of the trail was steep, and hands as well as feet were required to make progress, so the trekking poles were stowed away. It was tiring work for the first day, so I was pleased to reach the grassy col at Bocca a u Bazzichellu at 1.00pm, which was the perfect time to have my lunch of cheese and salami on pitta bread.
The final part of the walk to Piobbu Refuge took me a little over an hour. The early starters had been there a while and the place was buzzing with activity with people busily pitching their tents. The Refuge was pretty basic with only cold spring water for washing, but for €20 they offered a hot evening meal which comprised vegetable soup for starters, lentils with sausage for the main course, and cake for afters. It wasn't the most generous meal, though, as it was a challenge to find the sausage.
It was cool the following morning because the Refuge was at 1,450m and shaded by the steep mountains. I was away by 8.20am and continued south climbing through woods on rocky paths. Progress slowed considerably as I left the woods and the rocks became boulderfields. This was tough going, and when I reached the Bocca di Pisciaghja at 11.30am I thought the hard work was over. In fact, it was just beginning.
I should have guessed this as I surveyed the terrain to the south. It was the most rugged I had ever seen, with steep mountain ridges, one after another, separated by deep, almost bottomless, valleys. The mountains were topped by sharp pinnacles that I would later discover the GR20 path weaves around. It was difficult to see where they could find places flat enough to build a refuge.
The next hour involved scrambling up and down jagged rocks. At the Bocca d'Avartoli I stopped for lunch, sharing food with a young Belgian couple, Neil and Josie, who I had first met whilst waiting for the bus at Calvi.
There was one more col to reach after lunch, Bocca di L'Innominata, and then it was an hour and a half of descending down slippery scree. The Refuge de Carrozzu finally appeared from amongst the trees. After a full-on 7 hour day, I was pleased to pitch my tent, have a cold shower and enjoy the evening meal in the pleasant company of fellow hikers.
Other than the early crossing of a swaying suspension bridge at Spasimata, the third day of walking was much as the second day, with rugged paths, boulderfields, scrambling up and down rock faces, often with protective chains attached, and sliding down steep scree slopes. What made it easier was that I now knew what to expect and I could feel myself getting stronger. I once again shared some lunch with Neil and Josie on the Bocca di Stagnu before descending to the Refuge d'Ascu-Stagnu.
There is a tarmac road leading to this refuge, so many visitors come here just for the day. They are easily distinguished from the GR20 hikers by the small rucksacks they carry. The refuge had electricity to charge phones and cameras, but no WiFi sadly. It also had food to purchase for the trail and a separate restaurant that served an a la carte menu and took credit cards. I took full advantage of all that was available and enjoyed a fine steak meal with Tom, another Belgian, who was also walking the trail alone and with whom I shared a table. We had many interests in common and got along very well.
The next day's walk would take me past Corsica's highest mountain, but more about that in the next post.
