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| THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK |
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| GULLFOSS |
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| STROKKUR GUSHES |
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| MUD POT AT SELTUN |
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| BLUE LAGOON |
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| MY B&B IN KEFLAVIK |
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| FISHING BOATS BEING MAINTAINED AT KEFLAVIK |
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| COASTGUARD VESSEL NEAR KEFLAVIK |
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| AMAZING WHALE-SHAPED ISLAND NEAR KEVLAVIK |
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| HOLMSBERGSVITI LIGHTHOUSE |
A popular tourist route that comprises a large loop from Reykjavik to central Iceland and back, involving about 190 miles of driving, is called the Golden Circle. It includes stops at Thingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss (meaning Golden Falls) and the geysers Geysir and Strokkur at the geothermally active area Haikadalur.
I must admit to being a bit sniffy about doing this rather 'touristy' thing, which is why I left it until last and 'only if I had time'. However, my arrival at Thingvellir soon persuaded me that my attitude had been misplaced.
The National Park lies in a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. It is at the northern end of Thingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland.
The historical significance is that the Icelandic Parliament, called the Althing, was founded here in 930AD and remained here until 1798. The National Park was established in 1930 to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the Althing. The Park is also an incredibly interesting and beautiful place, geologically, and I enjoyed a good long walk through it.
I next proceeded to Gullfoss. In spite of waterfalls being rather commonplace in Iceland, this one was rather special as it is effectively two waterfalls in one. The photo shows this more clearly than can be described in words.
Finally, I drove to see the geysers. The most famous one, Geysir, from which the name of the phenomenon is derived, has been inactive for many years but Strokkur erupts at 5-10 minute intervals. Everyone was standing around it with their cameras at the ready. It teased us, bubbling and gurgling and looking like it might erupt, and then not doing so. Then it would spout almost without warning. It was as if it was playing a game with us.
The early evening drive back to the Bus Hostel in Reykjavik was pleasant, and I booked in for my fifth night.
My stay was brief. Checking-out again in the morning, it was time to say a last farewell to the city. The plan for the day was to explore the Reykjanes peninsula. This had looked like an interesting place from the very beginning, but it made sense to leave it until last because the Airport was near the end of the peninsula.
It was sunny as I headed west out of Reykjavik on Route 41, then turned south on Route 42. Within 30 minutes of leaving the hostel I was amongst the debris of huge past volcanic activity and the manifestations of the present geothermal activity. The landscape near Kleifarvatn lake was stunning and I stopped to photograph the streaming vents and boiling mud-pots at Seltun.
I reached Route 427 along the south of the peninsula and continued westwards to Grindavik. From here it was a short drive to the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa much like Myvatn Naturebath. Like the highlighted locations on the Golden Circle, this is another place that tourists are almost compelled to visit. It is impressive, with waters an almost unreal milky blue colour due to the high mineral content. However, bathing there is twice the price of Myvatn and, since I had already been to the latter, I didn't go in - not that I had the time anyway.
Keeping close to the coast, I came to the Reykjanesvirkjun geothermal power station near the tip of the peninsula at Reykanes. Inside was an exhibition called 'Power Plant Earth' about geothermal energy. Whilst looking at the displays, the attendant told me he was feeling unwell and had to go to the hospital, so could I let myself out when I had finished.
When I had, I carried on around the end of the peninsula, recalling that this was the 'moonlike' landscape that I had seen from the aircraft when I came in to land on arrival. Close-to now, it still looked lunar.
I finally drove into Keflavik to find my B&B in the town centre, and was greeted by the owners, Renata and Pauli. I had given myself enough time to check-in and empty the car of my belongings before the man from the car hire company came to pick it up. I had driven 1,650 miles in eight days, an average of just over 200 miles per day.
Relieved of four-wheeled transport, I used my legs to take me for a two hour walk along Keflavik promenade. It was a clean, quiet, pleasant town and I particularly enjoyed looking around the harbour areas. I also noted an Irish pub selling Guinness in the town, but then remembered that many Icelanders had Irish roots. There was little more that I could have seen in Reykjavik so it had been a good decision to come here. I spent the evening packing my bags for tomorrow's flight home.
Renata and Pauli's B&B was a cut-above the hostels where I had been staying. For instance, they provided bedding instead of me having to use my sleeping bag, and the breakfast was supurb. I didn't have to get to the airport until the afternoon so decided to head out on another walk. Renata told me that there was no need to vacate the room until I was ready.
My walk was along the clifftops to the north in the general direction of Gardur. There was a path to begin with, but this soon petered out. This was obviously a place where seabirds lay their eggs because I was regularly being harried by Gulls and Terns. I was told that they can cause significant injury if they attack, so I put my rucksack on my head if they started swooping too close. I passed a small rocky island that looked like a whale and then reached the orange-painted Holmsbergsviti lighthouse I decided it was time to turn back when I reached a golf course that extended right to the cliff edge - I wondered how many balls end up in the sea.
By the time I got back to the B&B I had been out for four hours and walked about 10 miles. Renata's daughter drove me to the airport. On the way, she asked me what had been my favourite bit of Iceland. I struggled a bit to answer because there had been so many outstanding moments, but eventually concluded that it was the final day's walk on the Laugavegur trail from Alftavatn to Landmannalaugar.
I felt I had used my time well and gained a good appreciation of this wonderful country. However, I now needed a holiday before my September expedition to Corsica, so I was quite looking forward to relaxing at home for a bit.
